I managed to hit an estate sale last Friday and picked up a handful of tools. Someone in the family was a hobbyist woodworker - the largest piece of equipment was an older Shopsmith with a full compliment of accessories (bandsaw, etc) - there was also a European bench that was already long gone when I hit the sale (probably a good thing as I wouldnt have room for it anyway and they tend to be very pricey).
Most of the prices were reasonable to high (as usual) - I passed on a later model Disston handsaw at $10 and a few other tools, but did manage to pick up a set of Footprint cabinet maker screwdrivers - these are the flat haft type with oblate handles in beech. I also found a #15 SnapOn Phillips driver, a "Sears" marked grinding wheel dresser (appears unused), a rosewood handled putty knife (partial to those) and a Sargent hole punch (second of this type Ive found). Most items were in the $1-2 range with $25 on the screwdriver set. Nothing real special here but all good user tools.
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Footprint Bench Screwdriver Set
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Made in England
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Snap-on SSDP102
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Sears Grinding Wheel Dresser
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Super Hyde Putty Knife
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Sargent Hole Punch
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Not too bad for a brief stop. In particular Ive been thinking about a set of cabinet drivers so those are very welcome.
As many of you know, were really big fans of modernism, especially mid-century modernism and were looking to replace our current furnishings with vintage designs from the 40s, 50s and 60s. Several months ago Cindis mom offered us her Platner designed coffee table - we had given her our 1920s reed furniture shortly after she moved to Atlanta - this was an inheritance Cindi had gotten from a relative, which she went to the expense of refinishing along with newly re-upholstered cushions. When we moved into the house on Lori Lane the furniture proved too small in scale for the jumbo-sized sunk-in living room. Heres an images I took around 2004:
Reed Couch and Chairs
The sofa and two chairs above were given to Cindis mom after living in the den near the fireplace.
Quarter-sawn oak Craftsman Furniture from Restoration Hardware
. We were able to obtain a nice set of Arts and Crafts (AKA Craftsman) furniture, similar to the designs of Stickley, that was better suited to the size of the room. At that time we hadnt yet gotten the bug to go all Mid-Century Modern, so the furnishings more than sufficed for day-to-day living. You can see the reed sofa in the background.
So recently I started obtaining some projects to replace the Craftsman furniture - so far, three Jens Risom Lounge chairs, two Jens Risom side chairs, a nice square Knoll table and most recently, a Jens Risom sofa. That last was the final piece we needed to basically replace what we had with a similar configuration. Heres an image of the Platner coffee table:
So I bet youre asking why Im going through all this? The Platner table came down from New York with Cindis mom - and it looked really odd with the reed furniture - the high-tech chrome wires didnt work with the reeds in the couch and chairs. Since we were going all modern, we were offered the table - the only problem - she needed something that could replace it. After looking for a bit, we figured out that what she needed was something more in the same scale and a bit retro - ideally of wood or something with the same brown tones. We found a structurally sound Lane Acclaim table - a bit beat up, with water and mineralization rings on top and a hammered finish (it was also quite dirty), but we paid little enough for it that it was worth getting as a potential replacement after a bit of TLC.
The things that sold me on the table: 1. It was all solid wood construction - even the flat table top was wood planks edge-jointed with the interesting walnut and oak veneers on top. 2. No racking or twisting to the legs - the end mortises into the legs and underlying supports made for a well-made, strong table. 3. Nothing in the finish looked like too large a task to re-do. 4. The veneers were all laying flat so I didnt have to worry about loosening the veneer and getting it to re-adhere (this last one fooled me a bit as Ill explain). 5. I grew up with Lane Acclaim (we had a rectangular coffee table and two end-tables) so I just like the design.
Unfortunately I wasnt very diligent in taking photos, so I dont have any of the table before I started. I literally thought this was going to be a "quick-and-dirty" refinish job so I got it into the shop and first gave it a good cleaning. I discovered that the lacquer finish had just about had it so first I tried lacquer thinner to strip it off, and eventually just carefully sanded it (there were dark spots embedded into the veneers that wouldnt clean up - fortunately almost all of it was removed with light sanding). This is the result:
A couple of things to note: 1. look at the near edge - see the spalting? That was all stained dark enough so you didnt see it before I stripped off the original finish. 2. Even being extremely careful, I managed to sand through the veneer in one corner (its the one to the right - unfortunately out of frame) to the poplar beneath. I figured that once I stained and coated the top it wouldnt be noticeable, and for once I was right. You dont see it unless its pointed out to you.
I did a few searches online to figure out what stain to apply - theres a Min-Wax that I found suggested on one bloggers post (pdx picker) with some photos and it seemed reasonable - the stain used was Minwax Early American. Remember, I wasnt looking for perfection here, just something I could quickly work out and deliver (note the date in the photo above is 19? Thats 2012.08.19. I did want to do a reasonable restoration with colors approximating the original, along with a lacquer finish (what was originally applied).
I figured I could apply a stain and go directly into a lacquer and be done. Theres only one problem - I dont like Min-Wax. Oh, sure its a good product, but the problem I have with it is that it already has a varnish added to it - which makes it impossible to adjust if your tint isnt quite right. I know that there are alternative ways to adjust, but doing airbrushed coats layered between sealers didnt fit into my "quick-and-dirty" idea. I did manage to find a finish that approximated what I was looking for - Varathane American Walnut found at the Home Depot. Now in retrospect, theres a bit more red and less yellow in this stain so its not quite right, but close enough for me.
Heres the table with stain applied:
One thing I noticed in some of the other Lane Acclaim refinsh photos available online - for some reason people are selecting finishes that dont bring the color of the oak down into the browns - the contrast to me is quite disturbing. In my case, except for the bit of red tint this is very close to the color of the legs.
I next appled a couple of wash coats of shellac to seal things up. This also brought a little yellow back into the mix and neutralized the red a bit:
After a bit of block-sanding to get everything flat, I applied the lacquer. Now this is where I totally hosed everything. I had always applied lacquer in the past using a sprayer, or in a pinch, a rattle can - but in my rush to get this thing done I decided to apply it via brush. The problem here is that I dont own a good varnish brush - you want something that holds the varnish and lays down a very even coat with minimal brush marks - any ridging that happens will need to be sanded down. After two coats I had something that looked obscene and it took quite a bit of sanding to get it looking right. Of course there were some imperfections but I thought, OK Ill just apply some wax. Another mistake - the wax made every imperfection glow-in-the-dark and applied a glossy sheen that wasnt appropriate to the piece. I was going to strip off the wax but ran out of time. In desperation I just hit the whole thing with some 000 steel wool and got the finish back to something close to what I was looking for. As a last step I cleaned up the legs and applied a light coat of wax with very light buffing - that brought up the old finish to the same luster as the new.
Here are some photos of the finished table before being loaded into the back of the Highlander, right after hitting it with steel wool (that was Thursday night 2012.10.04):
Im not quite sure how it ended up being a 6 week project - I really thought I could get it done in a weekend. Lessons learned here: 1. Im too much of a perfectionist to do any "quick and dirty" projects when it comes to refinishing. 2. Invest in the time to get the stain right and dont settle for "close" 3. Always, always apply lacquer using the sprayer - for the time it took me to block everything out I could have purchased a whole case of rattle can lacquer. 4. Know youre still taking a risk in the veneer even if the pieces are flat (I actually think that the corner where I sanded through - you can see it in the last photo, the left corner closest to you - was thin to begin with, probably from the Lane factory.
Thats my story. Hope you enjoyed it and learn from my mistakes. John
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Ive been using Evapo-Rust for about a year to clean up rusty tool parts. Ive had a gallon that I would re-use and its finally died on me - what happens is that it gets to the point where its not getting into the pits (if the metal is pitted) and after wiping the part flash rusts pretty quickly. Looking back over the documentation it states that a gallon will treat 300 pounds of metal. I can attest that Ive put way over that amount in the gallon Ive been using (I filtered the liquid when there was too much sediment). When it starts to fail it creates a yellowish/greenish slimy sludge that sits on top of the part in the bath - this stuff wipes off and Im assuming that its a mildly sulfurous compound (no eggy smell though).
Some tips:
1. Make sure you have enough to submerge the part completely or you get a watermark from the dip - this is almost impossible to remove.
2. When not using, reseal in the container as I believer there is some dilution with exposure to air.
3. My process is to dip, usually overnight as most of the parts are heavily rusted, remove next day and wipe down - if theres a lot of rust Ill hold it next over a garbage can and scrape a bit, which removes the heavy stuff - use a wire brush, sandpaper or razor blade. If its still rusted put it back in the wet. When youre satisfied that the rust is off, re-dip and let air dry - it keeps it from flash rusting (says 2 weeks but it actually lasts longer).
4. For irregular shaped objects I place 4 mil plastic in a plastic over-sized tub, then shape the plastic to conform closely to the part - put a couple of blocks of wood underneath so the plastic isnt sticking to the part or youll end up with water marks areas not derusted.
5. Best price Ive found is at Harbor Freight - they have gallons for $20 and you can use a coupon (I get 20% off coupons in the mail or via email).
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Steven Kennard is not an easy man to pigeonhole. Born and raised in England, where for many years he built furniture and restored antiques, he also lived for nearly a decade in France, where he turned wood and took photographs. Now he and his Canadian-born wife, Ellie, live in Nova Scotia and work in a renovated barn on their property. Kennards earliest woodworking included building sets for theatrical productions. Along the way he also built kitchens, French-polished pianos, and ran a successful business building portable tables for physical therapy and massage. In the late 1970s he bought a lathe so he could replace broken parts on antiques; within a few weeks he had turned his first box, and since then, he says, amidst the wide array of work hes done, one constant has been his passion for turning boxes. These days, in addition to photography--a blend of fine art photos and shots of work by other artists and craftsmen--Kennard devotes much of his time to box turning. In this slide show, he talks about turning and presents several dozen of his remarkable boxes.
Kennards work was featured on the back cover of Fine Woodworking #220.
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The marquetry adorning the top of this 18th century table is beautiful, but after over 200 years, its colors have faded significantly.
J. Paul Getty Museum
With the turn of a key, the top and writing surface extend in opposing directions.
J. Paul Getty Museum
A dizzying array of mechanics make this table an engineering marvel.
J. Paul Getty Museum
The drawer beneath the silk-covered writing surface features no pull. Instead, the user must depress a hidden lever beneath it.
J. Paul Getty Museum
Need more storage? A full length drawer opens out from the right side. Of course, it features a beautiful mortised lock set.
J. Paul Getty Museum
The marquetry adorning the top of this 18th century table is beautiful, but after over 200 years, its colors have faded significantly.
Photo: J. Paul Getty Museum Add Comment Print
Nowadays, any enterprising woodworker with a bit of engineering know-how can easily purchase any number of manufactured gears, cams, and ratcheting mechanisms for use in extraordinary pieces of furniture. But back in the 18th century, when this exquisite table was built by a French craftsman, there certainly werent any Woodcraft, Rockler, or McMaster retail stores from which to purchase these sorts of mechanical items, and thats what makes this little table such a marvel of engineering.
Jean-Francois Aubin had privacy in mind when he built this small table for a female French aristocrat. Its chock-full of incredible mechanics thatll make your head spin.
With the turn of a key, the top and writing surface extend in opposing directions, revealing a silk-covered writing surface as well as two hidden wells for the storage of writing paper and other supplies. A small drawer centered beneath the writing surface has no pull with which to open it. Instead, the user depresses a small lever hidden beneath. For even more storage, Aubin incorporated a full length side drawer with a mortised lock set.
Marquetry Worn by Time Interestingly, the colors of the marquetry on this particular table are rather muted--a result of the ravages of time. In much the same way that were not accustomed to seeing the original colors adorning the old ruins of Rome, the artists rendering of what this tables beautifully-adorned top would have looked like some 250 yeears ago is simply stunning.
More on marquetry: be sure to catch our audio slideshow on the construction of a reproduction masterpiece.
Secrets Unfold The J. Paul Getty Museums animation of the inner secrets of this little table is stunning as well, and well worth watching. Its sure to inspire just about anyone who has ever built anything at all!
posted in: blogs, period furniture, french furniture, mechanics Add Comment Print Back to List Comments (12) Ronaldo9 writes: I would expect FWW to do a bit more research, the correct spelling is Jean-François Oeben. He was one of the greatest ébénistes of the XVIII and was also the master of Jean-Henri Riesener (many consider the latest to be the greatest). Their work sure deserve a whole article each. There is one book on Oebens life: http://www.amazon.com/Jean-Fran%C3%A7ois-Oeben-Rosemarie-Stratmann-Dohler/dp/2859173544/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_1
Posted: 4:12 am on June 26th philtomlinson writes: FWW should really get out to see Robert Yarger of the Stickman Box Company.
He is a puzzle-box maker extraordinaire.
You can see some samples of his work, including his amazing Pirates Cipher Puzzlechest by going here:
http://www.lhup.edu/jstrayer/charles.htm
Seriously, theres a cover story here. Posted: 5:32 pm on June 25th dixiehighway writes: @geoffm The Amish make a round table that remains round when extended.It is amazing. The pie-shaped pieces unfold, and the table slides out to accept them. Posted: 12:26 pm on June 25th dansanc writes: I take my hat off for Jean-Francois Aubin. What a wonderful piece!!! Are plans available? Posted: 11:38 am on June 25th Norman49 writes: Superbe table. Maitre Aubin certainly was a master artisan. Id love to get a set of plans replicating this table or similar 18c pieces.
Posted: 10:32 am on June 25th Praath writes: I forgot something; Here is the link to the extending round table that I found on the internet about a year ago. Is this the table that was to be seen at Harrods? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWJdal0SYoc Theo
Posted: 6:49 am on June 25th Praath writes: Is this the extending round table you saw at harrods? I think its a marvel Posted: 6:46 am on June 25th PaulC123 writes: I must be being a bit thick (not unusual) where is the link to the animation?
Thanks Posted: 5:32 am on June 25th geoffm writes: ... and speaking of stunning craftsmanship, I am reminded of the Jupe Table, which I saw in Harrods, London. This is a round extending table, which remains round when extended ! Maybe FWW can find some info on this marvellous piece ?
Posted: 3:49 am on June 25th DarrenOates writes: Wow, what an amazing piece. Cant imagine how much this piece must have cost in its day. Agree, amazing craftsmanship. Posted: 3:17 am on June 25th Muscleguy writes: That looks like a clockwork motor doing the work of moving the top and writing surface, activated by the key. You can see the ratchet winding set on the front. Nice and a good use of then available tech. Probably more robust than our modern tendency to use electric motors as well. Posted: 3:12 am on June 25th Rustysea writes: Stunning design stunning craftsmanship - pretty stunning video too - and all done with hand tools. Posted: 2:40 am on June 25th You must be logged in to post comments. Click here to login. Subscribe to RSS Feed
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"I would expect FWW to do a bit more research, the correct spelling is Jean-François Oeben. He was..."
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Stupefying Engineering in an 18th Century Table comments (12)June 23rd, 2011 in blogs /ABS/Auto%20Blog%20Samurai/data/WoodWorking%20Plans%20And%20Furniture%20Plans/fine/EdPortrait3_sqs.jpg)
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Nowadays, any enterprising woodworker with a bit of engineering know-how can easily purchase any number of manufactured gears, cams, and ratcheting mechanisms for use in extraordinary pieces of furniture. But back in the 18th century, when this exquisite table was built by a French craftsman, there certainly werent any Woodcraft, Rockler, or McMaster retail stores from which to purchase these sorts of mechanical items, and thats what makes this little table such a marvel of engineering./ABS/Auto%20Blog%20Samurai/data/WoodWorking%20Plans%20And%20Furniture%20Plans/fine/louisdrawer.jpg)
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Ronaldo9 writes: I would expect FWW to do a bit more research, the correct spelling is Jean-François Oeben. He was one of the greatest ébénistes of the XVIII and was also the master of Jean-Henri Riesener (many consider the latest to be the greatest). Their work sure deserve a whole article each.
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