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Tampilkan postingan dengan label modern. Tampilkan semua postingan

Kamis, 16 Juni 2016

Refinishing a Classic Lane Acclaim Coffee Table

As many of you know, were really big fans of modernism, especially mid-century modernism and were looking to replace our current furnishings with vintage designs from the 40s, 50s and 60s. Several months ago Cindis mom offered us her Platner designed coffee table - we had given her our 1920s reed furniture shortly after she moved to Atlanta - this was an inheritance Cindi had gotten from a relative, which she went to the expense of refinishing along with newly re-upholstered cushions. When we moved into the house on Lori Lane the furniture proved too small in scale for the jumbo-sized sunk-in living room. Heres an images I took around 2004:

Reed Couch and Chairs

The sofa and two chairs above were given to Cindis mom after living in the den near the fireplace.

Quarter-sawn oak Craftsman Furniture from Restoration Hardware
.
We were able to obtain a nice set of Arts and Crafts (AKA Craftsman) furniture, similar to the designs of Stickley, that was better suited to the size of the room. At that time we hadnt yet gotten the bug to go all Mid-Century Modern, so the furnishings more than sufficed for day-to-day living. You can see the reed sofa in the background.

So recently I started obtaining some projects to replace the Craftsman furniture - so far, three Jens Risom Lounge chairs, two Jens Risom side chairs, a nice square Knoll table and most recently, a Jens Risom sofa. That last was the final piece we needed to basically replace what we had with a similar configuration.  Heres an image of the Platner coffee table:



 So I bet youre asking why Im going through all this? The Platner table came down from New York with Cindis mom - and it looked really odd with the reed furniture - the high-tech chrome wires didnt work with the reeds in the couch and chairs. Since we were going all modern, we were offered the table - the only problem - she needed something that could replace it. After looking for a bit, we figured out that what she needed was something more in the same scale and a bit retro - ideally of wood or something with the same brown tones. We found a structurally sound Lane Acclaim table - a bit beat up, with water and mineralization rings on top and a hammered finish (it was also quite dirty), but we paid little enough for it that it was worth getting as a potential replacement after a bit of TLC.

The things that sold me on the table: 1. It was all solid wood construction - even the flat table top was wood planks edge-jointed with the interesting walnut and oak veneers on top. 2. No racking or twisting to the legs - the end mortises into the legs and underlying supports made for a well-made, strong table. 3. Nothing in the finish looked like too large a task to re-do. 4. The veneers were all laying flat so I didnt have to worry about loosening the veneer and getting it to re-adhere (this last one fooled me a bit as Ill explain). 5. I grew up with Lane Acclaim (we had a rectangular coffee table and two end-tables) so I just like the design.

Unfortunately I wasnt very diligent in taking photos, so I dont have any of the table before I started. I literally thought this was going to be a "quick-and-dirty" refinish job so I got it into the shop and first gave it a good cleaning. I discovered that the lacquer finish had just about had it so first I tried lacquer thinner to strip it off, and eventually just carefully sanded it (there were dark spots embedded into the veneers that wouldnt clean up - fortunately almost all of it was removed with light sanding). This is the result:


A couple of things to note: 1. look at the near edge - see the spalting? That was all stained dark enough so you didnt see it before I stripped off the original finish. 2. Even being extremely careful, I managed to sand through the veneer in one corner (its the one to the right - unfortunately out of frame) to the poplar beneath. I figured that once I stained and coated the top it wouldnt be noticeable, and for once I was right. You dont see it unless its pointed out to you.

I did a few searches online to figure out what stain to apply - theres a Min-Wax that I found suggested on one bloggers post (pdx picker) with some photos and it seemed reasonable - the stain used was Minwax Early American. Remember, I wasnt looking for perfection here, just something I could quickly work out and deliver (note the date in the photo above is 19? Thats 2012.08.19. I did want to do a reasonable restoration with colors approximating the original, along with a lacquer finish (what was originally applied).

I figured I could apply a stain and go directly into a lacquer and be done. Theres only one problem - I dont like Min-Wax. Oh, sure its a good product, but the problem I have with it is that it already has a varnish added to it - which makes it impossible to adjust if your tint isnt quite right. I know that there are alternative ways to adjust, but doing airbrushed coats layered between sealers didnt fit into my "quick-and-dirty" idea. I did manage to find a finish that approximated what I was looking for - Varathane American Walnut found at the Home Depot. Now in retrospect, theres a bit more red and less yellow in this stain so its not quite right, but close enough for me.

Heres the table with stain applied:


One thing I noticed in some of the other Lane Acclaim refinsh photos available online - for some reason people are selecting finishes that dont bring the color of the oak down into the browns - the contrast to me is quite disturbing. In my case, except for the bit of red tint this is very close to the color of the legs.



I next appled a couple of wash coats of shellac to seal things up. This also brought a little yellow back into the mix and neutralized the red a bit:



After a bit of block-sanding to get everything flat, I applied the lacquer. Now this is where I totally hosed everything. I had always applied lacquer in the past using a sprayer, or in a pinch, a rattle can - but in my rush to get this thing done I decided to apply it via brush. The problem here is that I dont own a good varnish brush - you want something that holds the varnish and lays down a very even coat with minimal brush marks - any ridging that happens will need to be sanded down. After two coats I had something that looked obscene and it took quite a bit of sanding to get it looking right. Of course there were some imperfections but I thought, OK Ill just apply some wax. Another mistake - the wax made every imperfection glow-in-the-dark and applied a glossy sheen that wasnt appropriate to the piece. I was going to strip off the wax but ran out of time. In desperation I just hit the whole thing with some 000 steel wool and got the finish back to something close to what I was looking for. As a last step I cleaned up the legs and applied a light coat of wax with very light buffing - that brought up the old finish to the same luster as the new.

Here are some photos of the finished table before being loaded into the back of the Highlander, right after hitting it with steel wool (that was Thursday night 2012.10.04):





Im not quite sure how it ended up being a 6 week project - I really thought I could get it done in a weekend. Lessons learned here: 1. Im too much of a perfectionist to do any "quick and dirty" projects when it comes to refinishing. 2. Invest in the time to get the stain right and dont settle for "close" 3. Always, always apply lacquer using the sprayer - for the time it took me to block everything out I could have purchased a whole case of rattle can lacquer. 4. Know youre still taking a risk in the veneer even if the pieces are flat (I actually think that the corner where I sanded through - you can see it in the last photo, the left corner closest to you - was thin to begin with, probably from the Lane factory.

Thats my story. Hope you enjoyed it and learn from my mistakes. John
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Selasa, 31 Mei 2016

Unisaw Quick October 20Fine Fine Update

This past weekend I finally had a chance to put another coat on the Unisaw case - next up is a bit of wet-sanding then another coat and Im calling it done.



Ive started assembling some of the interior parts - still deciding about the motor - I have new bearings for it but may put everything together and do the motor later. This project has been taking so long that Im getting to the point where I just want to get if off the floor (it takes up a lot of space and I have to hear someone complain about it every time she walks by).

-- John
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Senin, 23 Mei 2016

Buy Modern shed plans designs

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Sabtu, 07 Mei 2016

Woodworking Tip of the dayEasy


NEW... NY Adirondack Chair & Footrest Wood Plans

Be the envy of all your friends with our NY Adirondack Chair & Footrest. It will sure be the topic of conversation. Our NY Chair and Footrest is very easy to build, because of our step-by-step instructions, detailed illustrations and best of all; Full Size Templates. You dont have to re-draw the plans. You can get started right away. Save time and money and order our special Corrosion Resistant Hardware Kit that includes all the hardware needed. If you order (3) Hardware Kits, well give you the woodworking plans FREE, plus well give you FREE Transfer Paper. The Chair measures: 39" H x 44" W x 55" L. For personal use only, not for mass production. http://www.gcwoodworks.com/ny-chair.htm

Aging Wood Artificially As wood ages, the surfaces that are exposed to light and air tend to grow darker. (Only walnut and mahogany grow lighter.) This phenomenon helps to give antique furniture its lustrous patina. When making reproduction of antiques, you can create an artificial patina by applying a 10-percent solution of nitric acid (available from most chemical-supply companies). Let the acid soak into the surface of the new wood for several minutes, then warm it with a heat gun. As the temperature of the surface climbs, the wood will suddenly turn dark. Continue to apply heat until the wood surface is dried thoroughly. When applying the acid, be sure to wear rubber gloves and a full face shield. work outdoors or in a well-ventilated room. check us out at http://www.gcwoodworks.com/

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Rabu, 04 Mei 2016

FREE Woodworking Tips Excellent Polyurethane Application

Excellent Polyurethane Application - FREE Woodworking Tip

Discarded pantyhose or nylon stockings make an excellent application for urethane or polyurethane finished, particularly on contoured surfaces or turnings. Just wad them up, dip the ball in the finish, and wipe it on. You get a nice, smooth, thin coat that dries fast and has few if any bubbles. Check out more FREE Woodworking Tips at http://www.gcwoodworks.com

Thanks,

Jack Briscoe
Gold Country Woodworks
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Rabu, 20 April 2016

Welcome to Modern Woodworking

As a blogger, I often find that its difficult to post when my blog has a specific topic, so I created a blog thats more generalize - johnnyapollo.blogspot.com, which focuses mostly on my thoughts about collecting, eBay buying and whatnot. However I have several other blogs that focus on my other interests: ModusModern for modernism, VehiCROSS as an enthusiast of the truck, MajorMattMason for the Mattel toyline, and now ModernWoodworking for my love of working with wood. I chose Modern Woodworking as I plan to focus on using modernist elements in my furniture building, developed by designers such as George Nelson, the Eames couple, Noguchi, Nakishima, the list goes on. Ill be using elements that I like with respect to those great designers, trying to imitate in homage and not copy. Ill also use this blog to relate my adventures in finding and restoring woodworking machines and tools. My next post Ill describe the restoration of a 50s Rockwell Unisaw, which I recently purchased.

-- John
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Senin, 18 April 2016

Jeff’s Elephant Clock



From: Jeff Collins


Location: Cincinnati, OH


Hobbyist or Pro: Hobbyist


Project Name: Elephant Clock


Wood Species: Jatoba, Zebra Wood


Finish Used: Wiped on clear Shellac


Project Description:
This project was a gift to my wife, who LOVES elephants. The inspiration came from wanting to combine an African theme (to tie in with the elephants) with the skeleton movement I used. The end result also incorporates some Greek styling as well.
Lots of mortise and tenon joints were used and the base was married to the clock platform with screws so the movement could be replaced if needed.




Click Here and Start WoodWorking

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Selasa, 12 April 2016

Unisaw Completing the Arbor and Tables

So a few days ago I got busy completing the arbor rebuild and starting the tables. The first thing I needed to do was address the big piece of the table edge that was missing (broken off - see the first post images and youll see what Im talking about). Ideally this would have a new piece braised back in, but frankly, Ive yet to find anyone locally who I felt comfortable with doing the work. Cast iron is rather finicky - the technique requires heating the metal up to cherry red before welding so that the metals interlock, then allowing to cool slowly (like it sand) so you get a strong joint. When talking to any of the welders around here, the only process they know is to immediately start going at it with rod - after thinking about this a while I decided to just fill it as best I could with JB Weld. Since its not a load bearing surface and wont be under any stresses, metal-filled resin just seemed easier to me (to work, particularly). I cut a few pieces of hard plastic and made a small form, mixing up the two parts and laying it into the void. The stuff was pretty much self leveling.


JB Weld within Form
Cardboard palette and Popsicle stick applicator
Allowed to dry and harden over-night

As you can see the color approximated the raw, cleaned cast iron. I continued to work down the resin using rasps, files and finally sandpaper


 

 

 

 

 
Ready for Paint!
While I starting taping off the tables and wings for paint, I also finished up the arbor rebuild. The first time I put the arbor together I wasnt happy with the result - the pulley could slide back-and-forth along the shaft about 3/32" - the threads on the bearing side were also a bit buggered so the retaining nut wanted to cross-thread. So before I torqued everything down and screwed something up, I took it all apart and made a few posts on OWWM to ask for some opinions. I knew I would need to chase the threads so with it apart it would be easier to get things to go together when assembled. One idea I got from the forum was to put everything together sans bracket so I could see how it would fit - that way I would know how much room I would have for the final nut and belvedere washer. While taking things apart the far bearing nearly fell out of the bearing - so I knew that was probably part of the problem. It was too loosely pressed in (the retaining nut wasnt applying enough force), so apparently what happened was that when I applied pressure on the arbor to press everything into final assembly, it loosened the far bearing - that was the slack I was seeing (understand there was so much slack that the spaces would slide - thats where I got my 3/32" of looseness). The second time was the charm - this time I applied a drop of blue LockTite to the far bearing, then made sure I got the retaining nut very snug. I did have one mishap - the punch slipped and hit the plastic bearing sleeve hard enough to scrape the coating, but not hard enough to puncture (luckily) so I went with the same bearing with the hope that it wasnt bad enough to warrant a replacement (only time will tell!).

Starting to press the bearing


Watch the spring washer so it doesnt get caught


You can see the small spot of coating where I slipped


TIP: Place small screwdriver blade under belvedere washer until nut is tightened


Slightly pry upward then go to a larger screwdriver (careful not to hit the bearing sleeve)


Final step to add the pulley lock (with a drop of blue LockTite)


Completed Arbor Rebuild!

I tried to group the photos together a bit, but in practice I actually went back-and-forth from inside to outside while I hit the wings with primer, then two coats of paint (if you look at the camera times you can see the order). I also got two coats on the underside of the table.

Primer
Paint
Table after Second Coat
Wings after Second Coat
In all I feel pretty good about where I am thus far. I still need to finish painting the cabinet, plus the motor cover, cranks, feet and pan, but those will need to wait for a clear day. Im going to start the sub-assemblies and probably get the motor apart so it can be cleaned, potentially turn down the commutator and fit new bearings (may get new brushes as well).

-- John
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Minggu, 27 Maret 2016

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