Pages

Tampilkan postingan dengan label tool. Tampilkan semua postingan
Tampilkan postingan dengan label tool. Tampilkan semua postingan

Kamis, 16 Juni 2016

Refinishing a Classic Lane Acclaim Coffee Table

As many of you know, were really big fans of modernism, especially mid-century modernism and were looking to replace our current furnishings with vintage designs from the 40s, 50s and 60s. Several months ago Cindis mom offered us her Platner designed coffee table - we had given her our 1920s reed furniture shortly after she moved to Atlanta - this was an inheritance Cindi had gotten from a relative, which she went to the expense of refinishing along with newly re-upholstered cushions. When we moved into the house on Lori Lane the furniture proved too small in scale for the jumbo-sized sunk-in living room. Heres an images I took around 2004:

Reed Couch and Chairs

The sofa and two chairs above were given to Cindis mom after living in the den near the fireplace.

Quarter-sawn oak Craftsman Furniture from Restoration Hardware
.
We were able to obtain a nice set of Arts and Crafts (AKA Craftsman) furniture, similar to the designs of Stickley, that was better suited to the size of the room. At that time we hadnt yet gotten the bug to go all Mid-Century Modern, so the furnishings more than sufficed for day-to-day living. You can see the reed sofa in the background.

So recently I started obtaining some projects to replace the Craftsman furniture - so far, three Jens Risom Lounge chairs, two Jens Risom side chairs, a nice square Knoll table and most recently, a Jens Risom sofa. That last was the final piece we needed to basically replace what we had with a similar configuration.  Heres an image of the Platner coffee table:



 So I bet youre asking why Im going through all this? The Platner table came down from New York with Cindis mom - and it looked really odd with the reed furniture - the high-tech chrome wires didnt work with the reeds in the couch and chairs. Since we were going all modern, we were offered the table - the only problem - she needed something that could replace it. After looking for a bit, we figured out that what she needed was something more in the same scale and a bit retro - ideally of wood or something with the same brown tones. We found a structurally sound Lane Acclaim table - a bit beat up, with water and mineralization rings on top and a hammered finish (it was also quite dirty), but we paid little enough for it that it was worth getting as a potential replacement after a bit of TLC.

The things that sold me on the table: 1. It was all solid wood construction - even the flat table top was wood planks edge-jointed with the interesting walnut and oak veneers on top. 2. No racking or twisting to the legs - the end mortises into the legs and underlying supports made for a well-made, strong table. 3. Nothing in the finish looked like too large a task to re-do. 4. The veneers were all laying flat so I didnt have to worry about loosening the veneer and getting it to re-adhere (this last one fooled me a bit as Ill explain). 5. I grew up with Lane Acclaim (we had a rectangular coffee table and two end-tables) so I just like the design.

Unfortunately I wasnt very diligent in taking photos, so I dont have any of the table before I started. I literally thought this was going to be a "quick-and-dirty" refinish job so I got it into the shop and first gave it a good cleaning. I discovered that the lacquer finish had just about had it so first I tried lacquer thinner to strip it off, and eventually just carefully sanded it (there were dark spots embedded into the veneers that wouldnt clean up - fortunately almost all of it was removed with light sanding). This is the result:


A couple of things to note: 1. look at the near edge - see the spalting? That was all stained dark enough so you didnt see it before I stripped off the original finish. 2. Even being extremely careful, I managed to sand through the veneer in one corner (its the one to the right - unfortunately out of frame) to the poplar beneath. I figured that once I stained and coated the top it wouldnt be noticeable, and for once I was right. You dont see it unless its pointed out to you.

I did a few searches online to figure out what stain to apply - theres a Min-Wax that I found suggested on one bloggers post (pdx picker) with some photos and it seemed reasonable - the stain used was Minwax Early American. Remember, I wasnt looking for perfection here, just something I could quickly work out and deliver (note the date in the photo above is 19? Thats 2012.08.19. I did want to do a reasonable restoration with colors approximating the original, along with a lacquer finish (what was originally applied).

I figured I could apply a stain and go directly into a lacquer and be done. Theres only one problem - I dont like Min-Wax. Oh, sure its a good product, but the problem I have with it is that it already has a varnish added to it - which makes it impossible to adjust if your tint isnt quite right. I know that there are alternative ways to adjust, but doing airbrushed coats layered between sealers didnt fit into my "quick-and-dirty" idea. I did manage to find a finish that approximated what I was looking for - Varathane American Walnut found at the Home Depot. Now in retrospect, theres a bit more red and less yellow in this stain so its not quite right, but close enough for me.

Heres the table with stain applied:


One thing I noticed in some of the other Lane Acclaim refinsh photos available online - for some reason people are selecting finishes that dont bring the color of the oak down into the browns - the contrast to me is quite disturbing. In my case, except for the bit of red tint this is very close to the color of the legs.



I next appled a couple of wash coats of shellac to seal things up. This also brought a little yellow back into the mix and neutralized the red a bit:



After a bit of block-sanding to get everything flat, I applied the lacquer. Now this is where I totally hosed everything. I had always applied lacquer in the past using a sprayer, or in a pinch, a rattle can - but in my rush to get this thing done I decided to apply it via brush. The problem here is that I dont own a good varnish brush - you want something that holds the varnish and lays down a very even coat with minimal brush marks - any ridging that happens will need to be sanded down. After two coats I had something that looked obscene and it took quite a bit of sanding to get it looking right. Of course there were some imperfections but I thought, OK Ill just apply some wax. Another mistake - the wax made every imperfection glow-in-the-dark and applied a glossy sheen that wasnt appropriate to the piece. I was going to strip off the wax but ran out of time. In desperation I just hit the whole thing with some 000 steel wool and got the finish back to something close to what I was looking for. As a last step I cleaned up the legs and applied a light coat of wax with very light buffing - that brought up the old finish to the same luster as the new.

Here are some photos of the finished table before being loaded into the back of the Highlander, right after hitting it with steel wool (that was Thursday night 2012.10.04):





Im not quite sure how it ended up being a 6 week project - I really thought I could get it done in a weekend. Lessons learned here: 1. Im too much of a perfectionist to do any "quick and dirty" projects when it comes to refinishing. 2. Invest in the time to get the stain right and dont settle for "close" 3. Always, always apply lacquer using the sprayer - for the time it took me to block everything out I could have purchased a whole case of rattle can lacquer. 4. Know youre still taking a risk in the veneer even if the pieces are flat (I actually think that the corner where I sanded through - you can see it in the last photo, the left corner closest to you - was thin to begin with, probably from the Lane factory.

Thats my story. Hope you enjoyed it and learn from my mistakes. John
Read More..

GWA at the 20Fine 3 Woodworking Show

Every year the GWA attends and displays at "The Woodworking Shows" and this year was no exception. For 2013 the show moved to the Gwinnett Center in Duluth, Georgia (formerly it was at the North Atlanta Trade Center). Im not quite sure why but there seemed to be a heightened sense of excitement this year. I also got to attend a seminar by Paul Sellers (someone who Ive found quite interesting online - hes just as gracious and charming in person as he is in his popular videos). 

The GWA booth was near the center of the large room down the main entrance. We had many items on display and also had stations for lathe and scroll saw work with volunteers in attendance. For the first time Ricky Alexander and some others set up notebook computers and demonstrated the work the SketchUp SIG has been getting into. Weve found that doing these shows is a great way to meet new people, discuss new methods and garner potential members. Here are the photos I took at the show.

GWA Member Ted Baldwin doing a demonstration at the Woodworkers Guild Booth...

Ted Baldwin at the Woodworkers Guild Booth

Some of Ted Baldwins Work
In the main lobby area was this table for the "Show Off Showcase" - not many entries this year...



New signage at the GWA booth this year - normally were against the wall so this year we chose to do tall vertical banners...


Hans Meier at a scroll saw station...

 
Gerry Jones at a lathe....
 


A shot of one of the new banners...


Mickey Hudspeth demonstrates his skill at chip carving...





Steve Carmichaels fantastic "Kiss" weathervane...


Some puzzles by Karl Taylor...



Some of George Norths segmentation work if Im not mistaken...


Ricky Alexander doing magic in SketchUp...



GWA founder Ron Brown had his own booth this year...



Some beautiful club-made boxes (Rob Brokaw I believe, featuring a bit of marquetry)...



Some turned items by the Turners SIG...



A whimsical intarsia piece...


I spotted this chair in another booth and had to take a couple of stills...



And that wraps up the photos that I took...

-- John
Read More..

Minggu, 12 Juni 2016

Using Evapo Rust for Tool Restoration

Ive been using Evapo-Rust for about a year to clean up rusty tool parts. Ive had a gallon that I would re-use and its finally died on me - what happens is that it gets to the point where its not getting into the pits (if the metal is pitted) and after wiping the part flash rusts pretty quickly. Looking back over the documentation it states that a gallon will treat 300 pounds of metal. I can attest that Ive put way over that amount in the gallon Ive been using (I filtered the liquid when there was too much sediment). When it starts to fail it creates a yellowish/greenish slimy sludge that sits on top of the part in the bath - this stuff wipes off and Im assuming that its a mildly sulfurous compound (no eggy smell though).

Some tips:

1. Make sure you have enough to submerge the part completely or you get a watermark from the dip - this is almost impossible to remove.

2. When not using, reseal in the container as I believer there is some dilution with exposure to air.

3. My process is to dip, usually overnight as most of the parts are heavily rusted, remove next day and wipe down - if theres a lot of rust Ill hold it next over a garbage can and scrape a bit, which removes the heavy stuff - use a wire brush, sandpaper or razor blade. If its still rusted put it back in the wet. When youre satisfied that the rust is off, re-dip and let air dry - it keeps it from flash rusting (says 2 weeks but it actually lasts longer).

4. For irregular shaped objects I place 4 mil plastic in a plastic over-sized tub, then shape the plastic to conform closely to the part - put a couple of blocks of wood underneath so the plastic isnt sticking to the part or youll end up with water marks areas not derusted.

5. Best price Ive found is at Harbor Freight - they have gallons for $20 and you can use a coupon (I get 20% off coupons in the mail or via email).

6. More info here: http://www.evaporust.com/

-- John
Read More..

Minggu, 22 Mei 2016

Mortises Mahogany The Sun



Had a fun time in the shop today as I dove into the Adirondack Chair Guild Build. I started by milling up the front legs in preparation for the joinery and I immediately noticed some issues with the color of my 8/4 stock, but we’ll get to that in a moment. Once the legs were milled to length, width and thickness, it was time to cut the mortises. As is always the case in the Guild, I try to show multiple ways to do things. So I cut one set of mortises using a router, and another set using the hollow chisel mortiser. Which do I prefer? Good question Marc! The router method is a smidgen faster and results in mortises with nice smooth walls. With the sweet dust collection of my OF1400, the work is rather clean too. The hollow chisel mortiser is a bit slower, a little messier and the mortise walls aren’t quite as smooth. But it has the advantage of providing perfectly square mortises and built-in stops. So once everything is set up, I could literally bring a monkey into the shop to pull the handles for me. If you know any monkeys looking for work, please send them my way.

Now, about that mahogany color issue. Maybe its just my supplier, but the mahogany I have access to can be incredibly varied from board to board and purchase to purchase. This is not the first time I have been surprised to confront a board that is much denser and even looks significantly different than the rest of my material. Trouble is, this isn’t obvious in the rough stock (pictured left). As you can see, there isn’t much of a discernable difference between these two boards. But once milled the true colors really show (pictured right). The 8/4 stock is not only darker, but much denser. In fact, my first clue was during the jointing when I experienced quite a bit more chatter as I passed the board over the blades. So the real question I have to ask myself is, “Should I use this stuff in my project???” Obviously I don’t want the front legs look different than the rest of the piece, but the possibility certainly exists that natural aging would bring these boards into the same color family. Thankfully, the Arizona sun is quite powerful!


I decided to conduct a quick test using three test pieces: a 4/4 board that represents most of the wood in the project, a single piece from the dark stock in question, and my backup stock that I stole from the Bell Forest kit that contains Fiji-grown Mahogany. I carefully placed the boards outside on my trusty “wood-aging boulder”. You DO have one of these don’t you?!?! After about five hours of unrelenting desert UV rays, the boards already started to darken. The results were actually enough for me to make a judgement call. The dark stuff was just too dark and I didn’t want to take the risk of this turning into a long-term eyesore. The Fiji Mahogany, on the other hand, looks perfect. And just in case you don’t believe the wood could change color in that period of time, the third picture shows you the tan lines. Hot! So it looks like I’m using the backup stock for my legs.


All in all, not a bad day. I’ll be back in the shop tomorrow continuing work on the legs and broadcasting live on the Live Page. Next up, adding a short tenon to the top of each leg and the Greene & Greene indent detail to the bottoms.



Click Here and Start WoodWorking

Read More..

Minggu, 08 Mei 2016

Seldon Bailey No 5 Patent Plane

If youve been following along, you know I managed to pick up an unusual metal hand-plane at a local yard sale. I posted about this in my last blog post, however for convenience here are a few images:

Group of Items found 2012.10.06
Plane as found
I only had a few facts to go on:
  1. The plane body is unmarked
  2. Tote and knob are both rosewood
  3. The blade adjuster has an unusual raising feature.
  4. Theres an extra cap which is secured via a cam-lock lever
  5. The blade is marked "Bailey Tool Co" in an arch across the cutter, with a medieval looking axe and Patent 1871 beneath.
Knob view





In any case, I posted the images above to the old tool group to see if I could fine out any more info. I suspected from my own searches that this plane was an early Leonard Bailey plane. I received a couple of replies identifying the plane but the best answer I received was from tool collector Josh Clark who wrote:
John-
 
Yup, its a Bailey Tool Co. jack plane all correct and proper and actually in not too bad condition. This plane was made in Woodsocket, RI by Seldon Bailey & Co., not Leonard, though Leonard did get involved at some point ca. 1878 and the whole thing gets confusing. You can see the various patents for the plane here: http://datamp.org/patents/search/xrefCompany.php?id=534  If you have an interest in mechanical stuff, the blade adjusting mechanism is really cool- its a work drive that has a very very fine adjustment tolerance, much finer than a standard Stanley plane. Cool stuff. Nice find.
 
Josh
So this blog post is basically about taking some detailed photos and getting them online (I found one photo of a similar plane, a number 4, that was shown on a For Sale page but marked as sold).

I very carefully dissembled the plane to give it a good cleaning, using only mineral spirits:


Here are some details shots of the blade adjusting mechanism:





And heres a short video of the way it works:


The other unusual feature of the plane is the cam-lock mechanism:




And heres another short video showing how it works:


Additional photos of the cleaned plane:













I received a suggestion from Josh that I might want to repair the tote (it had been badly glued together at the crack at some point and the rod would hardly pass the off-set). I undertook to use something that was reversible, in case at some point someone wanted to do a different repair, so I used a black super glue I found online, reasoning that a bit of acetone would break the repair if necessary.



I did just a little light sanding then added some shellac to approximate the sheen on the knob. Here are photos of the completed plane with just a little more cleaning an a light coat of paste wax:








Thats about it. I hope Ive managed to add to the knowledge-pool regarding the Seldon Bailey plane.

Heres a site that shows images of other Seldon Bailey planes (sold):
http://www.quietcornerantiques.com/id71.html

And heres some additional info from the Old Tools Archive:
http://swingleydev.com/archive/get.php?message_id=226226&submit_thread=1

Thanks! John
Read More..